Weeds - management, control and ground clearance

Barrowful of weeds!
Introduction
Weeds are just plants growing where they are not wanted. They may be 'wild' plants or simply 'cultivated' plants that have spread too far.
'Weeds' can bring benefits to a garden - they are not all bad.
Where necessary, weeds can be managed using the range of methods outlined below. Prevention is the key and cuts down on the work in the long run.
There is no 'quick fix' organic herbicide for clearing weedy ground of perennial weeds, but there are other methods. It is worth allowing sufficient time (which could be months or even a year or more) to clear perennial weeds completely, before planting up with perennial plants, fruit bushes, shrubs etc.
Best organic practice - the first choice
Stale seedbed technique
This useful technique is used to reduce seedling weeds, where you are going to sow grass seed for a lawn, for example or clover as a green manure, or sow slow to germinate vegetable crops.
You will need to prepare the seedbed at least 4 weeks before you want to sow the seeds. Prepare the ground, and rake it level. Water well, if dry, to encourage weed seeds to germinate.
After four weeks or so, very gently hoe off the weed seedlings that have appeared. It is important only to disturb the top 1-2cm of soil; anything deeper and you will encourage more weeds to germinate.
Research has shown that covering the prepared ground with black plastic sheeting can also be effective, avoiding the need for hoeing.
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Recognise the weeds which bring something positive to your garden.
For example:
- Clover and other 'weeds' help to keep a lawn green in dry weather.
- Weed foliage and flowers can provide essential food and shelter for butterflies, moths and other wildlife.
- And then there is always nettle soup for you and fresh green leaves for guinea pigs, rabbits and other pets.
- Allow some weeds to flourish in odd corners where they are not going to compete with your chosen plants.
- Garden design can limit areas where weeds can become a problem
- Grow ground cover plants, including green manures
- Vegetables - close spacing; vigorous varieties; intercropping; undersowing
- Crop rotation
- Stale seedbed (see box)
- Hand weeding, hoeing, digging out.
- Mulching for clearing weeds and keeping ground clear
See also:
- Mowing and cutting
- Lawns - encourage good grass growth; don't cut grass too short
- Clear perennial weeds thoroughly before planting perennial plants
- Cut problem weeds, such as docks and thistles, to prevent them seeding
- Use livestock, such as pigs, chickens, geese, to clear weeds
- Pressure washing or stiff brush for algae and moss on paths
- Removing plants that shade a path will discourage algae and moss
- Regular use - paths not used regularly are more likely to grow weeds
- Well constructed paths, driveways and other hard landscaping
- Mulches made from recycled plant materials from garden or allotment.
See also:
- Cardboard and newspaper for mulching
For more detailed information on organic weed control, particularly for farmers and growers, but also of interest to gardeners, go to our dedicated Organic Weed Management website - www.organicweeds.org.uk
Acceptable organic practice
- Loose mulches, commercially available, with an accredited organic symbol, or wording, from an approved organic certification organisation. [FACT SHEET IN preparation now]
- Loose mulches, commercially available, made from recycled plant materials. Products from local sources, and those not packaged are preferable. See the section on Bulky organic materials - recycled plant wastes
Acceptable, but not for regular use
- Biodegradable mulch fabrics made from wool, hemp, paper and other natural materials; also biodegradable, non-GM, starch based materials.
- Bagged biodegradable mulches from non organic sources
- Inert materials such as gravel, slate waste, recycled glass - preferably from recycled and/or local sources. Consider environmental impact, and transport costs.
- Permeable synthetic materials - [polypropylene, polyethylene or other polycarbonates only] for ground clearance, long-term plantings and under paths, driveways etc.
- Impermeable synthetic materials, such as black polythene - for ground clearance only
- Thermal/ flame weeding on gravel, tarmac and other hard landscaping surfaces
- Weed killing sprays containing fatty acids, such as pelargonic acid, as the active ingredient - used on paths, patios and other hard landscaping only
Never acceptable in an organic garden
- All other weed killing sprays
- Any materials from unsustainable sources
- Carpet as a mulch
Members' Comments
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We have lots of buttercups and other weeds in our lawn, we would like to have a higher ratio of grass to weeds, on heavy clay, quite furtile and drained - what's the best way to get rid of the buttercups organically?
In a lawn, the balance between "weeds" and grass is best influenced by improving the growing conditions for the grass. You may have to improve drainage further or loosen compacted areas, for example. Or perhaps shade is a problem? Check the pH too.
If you have any further questions on reading this, please email the Garden Organic advice team.