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Lovage, Levisticum officinale

Lovage is a beautiful hardy perennial herb belonging to the Umbelliferae, the same family as angelica and carrot.

Although lovage has been grown in English gardens and Monastery gardens for hundreds of years, it is not a native plant. It originates from the Mediterranean.

Lovage has been cultivated since the time of Pliny (23-79AD). It was used a good deal as a herbal remedy for sore throats as well as an aphrodisiac. In 1597, John Gerard considered lovage to be one of the wonder drugs of the day and was used for jaundice, colic and fever in children. Old herbalists would also claim this herb would aid against other 'pestilential disorders', which allowed them to prescribe it for pretty much anything.

This tasty recipe was recommended for spot removal - " the leaves bruised and fried with a little hog's lard and laid hot to any blotch or boil will quickly break it ".

A popular cordial was brewed from a mix of lovage, yarrow and tansy. A more alcoholic version included sugar and brandy. The drinks were used to reduce stomach upsets. Recipes are still often listed in modern herbals and are claimed to be delicious.

The Greek name Levisticum is said to be a corruption of the Greek Ligusticum from the Greek Ligustikas, pertaining to Liguria, the Italian province which is one of the plants' homelands.

A tall addition to the herb garden, lovage is often placed at the back of the herbaceous border. Hollow stems are covered with the dark green leaves that look a bit like coarse celery. During June and July, an ornamental umbel of greeny yellow flowers appear, with a similar appearance to parsnip and fennel.

Levisticum officinale reaches 1.5-1.8m (5-6ft) in height during the early summer but dies right back in the winter. The unsightly collapsed stems can be cut down to ground level. However, it is worth-while leaving a few of the upright hollow stems for ladybirds to hibernate in.

Lovage is a stimulant with similar reactions to angelica, to which is related. In traditional Chinese medicine, a related plant, Levisticum chinensis is used to relieve pre menstrual tension.

Advantages of this herb

All parts of this herb can be used in various ways - in the kitchen, bathroom and medicine chest.

Medicinally, lovage is used for stimulation of digestion and as a remedy for an upset stomach. Lovage can also help get rid of flatulence. It can also be used to reduce water retention and can also be used as a deodorant.
Lovage seeds, leaves and stems have a similar flavour to celery and can be used in soups, salads and rice dishes. The leaf stalks and stem bases can be blanched and eaten as you would celery.

Lovage tea can be made from the dried leaves creating a very agreeable aroma.

The fruit and root are used as flavouring in liqueurs

Growing this herb

Lovage prefers deep rich moist soil and can grow in full sun or partial shade. Apply well rotted compost before planting and in the spring when required.

Propagation

Lovage is a hardy perennial, and can be propagated from fresh seed or by root division.

Seed

Sow fresh seed in September and October as soon as it is ripe. Sow directly in prepared ground where the plant is to grow. Alternatively, spring sow the seeds in pots in the greenhouse or cold-frame.
Plant out hardened off seedlings at least 60cm apart.

Division of roots in the spring.

Choose a dry warm day for root division. The roots can grow down quite deeply, so make sure you have a good spade and preferably two garden forks for the actual division. Plant healthy roots into a new site, prepared with well rotted compost. Make sure each division has a new bud.

Harvesting and how to use

Leaves can be used in salads and many other recipes. Always pick the leaves when young and fresh. Once the herb has flowered, the leaves tend to become a bitter. Cutting back sections in the summer will provide a continual supply of fresh young leaves. Leaves can also be dried, but will retain flavour better if frozen.

Try some of the following recipes:

• Add fresh leaves to a warm bath. This allows a relaxing soak with a lovely aroma.
• Infusions of the stems and leaves of the plant, placed in warm water, can be used as a relaxing, soothing soak for sore feet.
• Lovage soups
  • 1 chopped onion
  • 2 potatoes
  • 2 tablespoons fresh or dried lovage leaves
  • 11/2 pint stock
  • Add onion to oil and lightly fry. Add stock and rest of ingredients allow to simmer for 20mins. Cool and blend. Return to heat, add more water if needed and add few tablespoons of milk just before serving. Some recipes recommend adding cream and grated nutmeg.

Roots Remove the skin of the root before using, as it tends to be a bit bitter. The root can be used as a soup stock.

Seed Crushed seed adds a delicious, celery like flavour to soups, salads, potato and rice dishes. Tasty oatcakes can be made by adding ground seed to the recipe.

Stems The young stems of lovage can be treated like angelica and used in confectionary. The flavour is slightly inferior.

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