In your ornamental garden in December 2011 and January 2012

And of course, when it is too cold and wet for working outside, curl up by the fire with the Organic Gardening Catalogue – dreaming of next spring and planning your garden.

Things to do at the turn of the year

• Prune acer and birch trees now, while they are dormant. This will avoid the danger of ‘bleeding’ (excessive sap loss) if they are pruned in spring when sap is moving. Wait until all leaves have fallen; the warm autumn has meant that leaf fall is later than usual.
• Tie in tall wall shrubs so they don’t get damaged by winter winds, or even heavy rain.
• Repair and paint wooden structures once plants have died back and you can get at the wood. Use environmentally sustainable products for any treatments.
• Now is the time to move large deciduous shrubs, should you want to. Firm in well, once planted, and stake if necessary. Keep well watered should there be a long dry spell mid-winter.
• Lag outdoor taps and pipes, and drain hosepipes.
• Flick dead leaves off low-growing evergreen plants such as prostrate thymes and rosemary, any alpines, and especially succulents such as sedum. This will prevent the plants from rotting under a wet layer of decaying vegetation.
• Acers in pots should be placed in a sheltered spot, or even in a cold greenhouse if that is possible.
• All containers should be raised off the ground on bricks or pot ‘feet’. This allows excessive rain to drain through easily and not be held in the pot, thereby rotting plant roots.
• Deadhead winter flowering pansies and violas to keep flowers developing.
• Tie up cordyline leaves to enclose and protect the centre. When snow or frost is likely, cover with fleece. Last year’s winter weather damaged many cordylines. Snow spread the leaves out, allowing frost to penetrate the plants’ centre.
• Evergreens suffer in cold weather as they continue to lose water through their leaves throughout the winter. When the ground is frozen, they are unable to draw up any water, and can dry out. Apply a thick (15cm/6in) layer of mulch (autumn leaves or leafmould for example) around plants. Mulch diameter should be at least 60cm/2ft, leaving a space around the trunk mulch free.
• If you want to use berried branches for decorations, pick before the birds eat the lot! Keep cut branches in a cool place, in buckets of water. A shed is fine for this, as plants don’t need much light.

• 
  Cotoneaster
  
  
  Pyracantha 'Orange Glow'
  
  
• Christmas trees need water. Trees with roots can be place in moist potting compost, but trees with no roots should be placed in water. They are just like cut flowers. When you get your tree, cut 3cm off the bottom of the trunk, then stand it in a bucket of water. Top it up regularly.
• Clean slippery paths of algal growth. A power washer does a good job. Alternatively, a thin layer of sand or grit on paths/steps will give some grip. Pin chicken wire over wooden decks to provide a slip-free walking path.
• January is a good time to order summer flowering bulbs. Think about trying something new and unusual such as Star of Bethlehem (Ornithogalum umbellatum) or pineapple lily (Eucomis bicolour).
• If there is a heavy snowfall, dislodge snow from trees and shrubs to prevent damage to branches. Conifers need especial attention.
• Check that newly planted trees and shrubs have not been loosened after heavy frosts and winter winds. Replace the soil if necessary and firm them in.
• Organise your new seeds as they arrive, along with the old ones left over from last year. A shoebox is a good container. Use dividers with dates to separate the packets and show when seeds should be sown.

Lawn care

• Avoid walking on lawns when they are wet or frosted.
• Clean and service your mower. Oil and grease moving parts that need it and sharpen or replace worn blades or cutters. You will need your mower in tip top condition come the spring when the grass starts growing again.
• Continue to rake up leaves from lawns and add them to your leafmould heap – or spread over the soil as a mulch. Fallen leaves on soil can be left as mulch; the worms will take them down into the soil.

Greenhouse

• If you haven't already done so, wash the greenhouse windows, inside and out.

• 
  Insulate the greenhouse
  
• If you haven’t already done so, insulate your greenhouse, or a section of it, If you have frost tender plants over-wintering. Bubble wrap works well. Also keep some cut lengths of fleece ready to cover vulnerable plants on cold nights.
• Remove all dead and dying foliage regularly from over-wintering plants to prevent mildews and moulds taking hold.
• If you are growing new potatoes in pots for Christmas, remember to keep them frost-free. You may have to bring them in the house in extreme weather.
• Watch out for whitefly if you have fuchsia in pots. It’s too cold now to use the biological control, so try insecticidal soap to keep things under control. If plants are badly infested, carry them outside very carefully in order not to disturb the whitefly. Once outside shake vigorously to dislodge the insects and quickly dash back inside the greenhouse and shut the door! Sounds mad, but it works.
• To avoid pests and diseases over-wintering, remove all plant debris and burn a sulphur candle.

Ponds

Ponds are best left alone at this time of year as the frogs and other creatures are hibernating, and should not be disturbed.

• In freezing conditions, float a tennis ball on the surface to keep the surface from freezing over completely. Never clear a frozen pond by smashing the ice. Melt a hole by placing a pan of hot water on the ice.
See our factsheet, Troubleshooting in the Garden Pond.

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What to plant in December and January

If soil conditions are appropriate (neither frozen nor waterlogged) this is a good time to put in new plants. There are many that are best planted in the dormant season.

• 
  It is still possible to plant some bulbs in December. Tulipa ‘Queen of the Night’, Allium ‘Purple Sensation’ and Fritillaria ‘Maxima Lutea’ have all been found to still do well despite a late planting. And of course, if you’ve got any other bulbs that have been overlooked, get them in the ground. As long as they are firm to the touch and free of mould you should get flowers, although they may be late.
• Plant hedges from bare root trees and shrubs at this time of year. There are many types of trees to use, such as beech (Fagus), hazel (Corylus), hawthorn (Crataegus), blackthorn (Prunus), elder (Sambucus), birch (Betula), dogwoods (Cornus), holly (Ilex)*, dog rose (Rosa), privet (Ligustrum)*, and the list goes on.
  * rarely available as bare root
• Most perennial plants can be planted now. Don’t plant grasses and bamboos; they only grow new roots in late spring to early summer and will just sulk all winter and could die.
• Plant new shrubs or move any smaller deciduous shrubs to new locations, water in well and mulch.

Make new plants

Hardwood cuttings

• When the leaves have fallen from deciduous shrubs, now is the time to take hardwood cuttings. Follow these easy steps to increase your shrub displays. Suitable shrubs include: Cornus, Salix (willow), Buddleja, Philadelphus, Prunus, Sambucus, Rosa, Berberis, Magnolia and Hydrangea.

Root cuttings

• Root cuttings are easy to take and are a reliable way of propagating many herbaceous perennial plants e.g. Papaver orientale, Verbascum spp, Acanthus and Phlox.
• Root cuttings are best taken in the winter from November to March. You can find further details of the root cuttings technique here.

Easy Perennials

Iris unguicularis


Skimmia japonica


Eranthis hyemalis


Prunus serrula


Chimonanthus praecox

This section gives you our suggestions of perennial plants that will soon look good or are looking good now, are easy to grow and fairly free of pest and disease, making them a good bet for an organic garden.
Even at this time of year there are some beautiful flowers to be found in the garden, from delicate clusters on the bare stems of shrubs to bright bulbs, which can be brought in to brighten the home at Christmas. This is also the time of year when coloured bark and stems can be seen at their best.

• Iris unguicularis
  This iris has lovely violet and yellow flowers amid a mass of dense foliage. They will begin flowering at the start of the year and will bring some much-needed cheer in these dark days.
• Skimmia japonica subsp. Reevesiana
  This subspecies of Skimmia japonica is a more reliable producer of berries than its parent. The fruits are a vibrant red and will remain on the plants from the autumn to the spring if the birds do not eat them. Prefers neutral to slightly acid soil.
• Eranthis hyemalis
  The winter aconite is a star plant for a shady area in the winter. Grow them under trees in drifts mixed with snowdrops for a stunning effect. Alternatively, grow them in pots dressed with gravel for a bright yellow display near the house.
• Prunus serrula
  It is only when winter comes and the bare trunk and branches of this ornamental cherry are fully exposed, that their beauty can be fully appreciated. The glossy, copper-bronze, peeling bark makes an excellent focal point in the garden in December and January.
• Chimonanthus praecox
  This shrub, also known as Wintersweet, can be grown free-standing or trained against a wall. The small yellow flowers will fill your garden with a sweet fragrance to give you that added encouragement to get out into your garden despite the cold weather.

Houseplant care

Plants are popular presents, and at this time of year cyclamen, poinsettias and azaleas can be found on windowsills nationwide. Most of them will last just a few weeks, maybe a couple of months. But give them the right conditions and they will flourish right through until spring. They provide a welcome splash of colour in the dull dark days of January.

Keep plants in a cool but light position. Cyclamen do best in north facing rooms, poinsettias and azaleas like a brighter spot, All plants prefer to be just moist, and always water from the bottom. Both cyclamen and azaleas need lime-free water as they are acid loving plants. If you live in a hard water area, use rainwater for watering. Remember to bring some in from the cold and allow to reach room temperature before watering house plants.

Poinsettias are usually discarded once their display is finished as they need very precise conditions for them to develop their coloured bracts next season. Cyclamen and azaleas however will grow for years happily indoors if they are allowed a dormant period after flowering is finished.

General care

House, and office, plants often suffer in winter. Pests proliferate in dry, centrally heated air. Poor light, dust and draughts reduce plant vigour, and plants are frequently overwatered.

• Reduce watering now as plants aren’t growing much, and leaves don’t lose moisture in cool conditions. Keep plants just moist.
• Always water plants from below. Allow to stand in water for 5 minutes only – use a timer. Allow excess water to drain before returning the plant to its normal position.
• Water succulents and cacti only every 2 months between now and next March.
• No need to feed plants between now and March.
• Mist the underside of leaves to keep humidity high. This deters red spider mite.
• Keep plants out of draughts. Check for cold air by wetting your hand and placing alongside the plant. You’ll soon feel any draughts on your wet hand.
• Keep leaves free from dust. Wipe large leaves with a damp cloth. Wash small leaves off in the shower.
• Succulents, cacti and yucca need to be in the sunniest spot possible. Remember not to leave them on the wrong side of the curtains in freezing weather.
• Be vigilant. Red spider mite loves hot dry air. If your plant develops mottled leaves, look on the underside of for webbing and mites moving over the surface. They are minute and can be hard to spot. Fatsia japonica (false castor oil plant) is particularly susceptible.
• Wipe scale insects off with cotton wool buds.

Pest & disease watch

• Pests - although they may not be clearly visible, many are hiding in the garden at this time of year. Check for slugs and snails hiding under pots, old bricks or stones. Winter digging will expose their eggs, and provide a welcome feast for the birds.
• Bay sucker infestation can be reduced if affected leaves are removed now. Also clear away any leaf litter at the base of trees. Adults overwinter in curled leaves on the tree and nearby plant debris, so now is a good time to get rid of them. Don’t throw leaves in the compost heap, put all material into the green waste bin.
• 
  Honey fungus
• You may have been devastated by the sight of clumps of honey-coloured toadstools in the  garden, fearing an attack of the dreaded disease honey fungus. Honey fungus (Armillaria spp) can be a real problem, but not all Armillaria species are harmful to plants. The presence of the toadstools, or the typical black 'bootlaces' in the soil is not necessarily sounding the death knell for your trees and shrubs.
  

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